Sustainability Shaming Isn't Helping Sustainable Fashion

Although within previous blog posts and my other social platforms I've discussed the importance of sustainability in fashion, and my opinion on fast fashion, I've also referenced how I do own a lot of clothes – this blog post is about how I don't believe this is contradictory, and here's why.

Let's begin with how strongly I agree with the sustainable fashion movement; It's been a long time coming and it's a conversation that brands and fashion media outlets are finally having everywhere, for good reason. As you know, I've worked in multiple brand head quarters, but it was actually at Ted Baker where I learnt the most when it comes to ethics and sustainability in fashion, such as the scary fact that fashion is the second most environmentally damaging industry on the planet. They had a whole team dedicated to ensuring ethical and sustainable practises across the whole company, from sourcing, to production to logistics, and I think every brand should have a team dedicated just to this too.

When it comes to fast fashion brands and the effect they have on our planet, I don't deem it fair to criticise and guilt trip anyone who does buy from a budget brand, and put all blame onto the company and their customers for the effects of the industry as a whole. Although they may have more of an effect on the above than more expensive brands, it's still fashion as a whole which causes these problems in our world, and to put 100% of the blame on cheaper brands is not only unfair, but it's also shrugging off the fact that ALL brands, and ALL consumers actually share responsibility for our planet. This is of course, providing that brands are following ethical and sustainable practises as well as laws.

I believe that everyone should try and avoid real budget, fast fashion brands where possible, however, I do understand it isn't always that easy. Lets be realistic – most people wouldn't probably shop at such brands if they have higher budgets. The truth is, people shop here because they can't justify spending more than whats sensible for their lifestyle, on clothes from elsewhere with bigger price tags. These brands offer choice and trend for those who can't shop in mid-market to luxury, and that can't be disputed.

I argue, that someone might get a lot of wear out of a Boohoo dress, treasure it and keep it for years before donating on, and equally, someone who spent a lot on a higher priced piece from & Other Stories may only wear the item a couple of times before disregarding it unethically. Simply just purchasing a higher priced piece doesn't instantly mean you rid yourself of all ethical responsibility, just like someone buying a lower priced item doesn't instantly mean they're irresponsible. As long as these brands exist, providing you treat all of your clothes with respect regardless of price, and dispose of them properly, then an individuals input into sustainability in fashion is considered and responsible.

It's the brands responsibility to ensure that they work with all of their suppliers to ensure regular factory audits are undertaken and all management of people and waste is ethical, and as long as this is being done, each persons responsibility, in my opinion, has been owned. If it turns out that a brand isn't working ethically, then yes, boycott and call them out – shout about it and bring awareness of it.

It may not be ideal for the industry that there are so many budget brands, but I feel that upon boycotting in favour of sustainability, other repercussions are made – the head office of the brand will have to sacrifice all jobs, the knock on effect being the suppliers then losing out on money and thus jobs too, and then factories losing orders and also making redundancies. On top of this, the small cafe across the road from the factory also suddenly loses business, and smaller towns where textile factories are the main source of income, are shot into disrepute. As much as the industry can have awful environmental effects, it does also produce a lot of of good too, and as long as each individual involved is responsible, then it's possible for all the good to improve and attempt to weigh up to the bad.

When it comes to the popular opinion that owning a mass amount of apparel is also unethical and bad for sustainability, and the shaming of it too that I'm seeing more, I find myself full of panic. Panic for judgement that I fear will be placed on me, such as being unethical and immoral, when I know that I'm far from it.

I do my part and stay in the know, but fashion is my greatest love. It always has been and always will be. Trends come and go, and with that, new pieces in my wardrobe are inevitable.

I've worked in fashion since I was 19, so for over 10 years now, and 10 years of accumulating clothes because of my career, I believe, is a good enough reason to own as much as I do. My wardrobe is my pride and joy, and I actually don't believe that you need a lot of clothes to be able to dress well – The Clothing Consultant believes in outfit repeating, making the most out of what you have by styling things differently and shopping sensibly. I regularly review my wardrobe – my digital wardrobe app shows me my style statistics; what I rarely wear and what has a low cost per wear, allowing me to have a full view of all I own and declutter often. I no longer buy clothes for one event that's approaching; in fact, I don't shop that much at all. And when I do? Well, I follow The Clothing Consultant's 3 question shopping rule!

As well as a wardrobe under constant review, every item I have is one that I truly love – I don't own clothes that I just think are “okay”. I own clothes that I adore, and thus look after them. They're organised, hung on suitable hangers and maintained to the highest degree. And when it's time to depart from something, I do so considerately. When you work in, live in and love fashion, it's natural that you just simply love a lot more than most. Just like if you work in and love catering, you may own more cookery books and equipment than most. Providing this love is nurtured and practiced ethically, I won't feel any shame in how much I own.

If you want to shop regularly and often because you enjoy it and have the money to do so, if it's done ethically and responsibly, then I deem it wrong to shame. Lets aim to educate, not shame.

If you shop at cheaper brands or expensive brands, shop all the time or very rarely - just always ensure you do it ethically, consciously, do your research, stay in the know on sustainability in the industry and always, always continue to have these conversations. They're important.

When it comes to the effect of fashion on the planet, aside from the above steps we can take to help, there are still clearly many, many more required. What they are is still to be desired, but we have a starting point, and that's a dam good start.

A further blog post on the effects of fast fashion and sustainability within the industry is coming soon.